Technical Advice: After Sales FAQs & Technical Problems

After Sales FAQs and Radiator Technical Problems

Click to Jump to Answers:

1. My Electric Radiator / Electric Towel Rail Makes Banging Noise Whilst Heating?

2. My Variable Heat Element is Flashing a Fault Warning when used with the Dual Fuel Set-Up?

3. I have Just Fitted a New Portrait Radiator to my Central Heating System and it is Cold in Places?

4. The Pipes on my Radiator have been fitted Top and Bottom and the Radiator is Cold in Places?

5. I Cannot fit the Bleed Key down the Back of the Heated Towel Rail to the Bleed Valve Located on the Back?

6. I have a 10mm Diameter Pipe Central Heating System (Micro Bore), But I’d Like to Install a Geyser Radiator with 15mm?

7. My Radiator / Heated Towel Rail is too Hot to the Touch (for my children etc)?

8. I Need to Replace My Existing Radiator but Cannot the Move the Distance Between The Pipes, Due to Floor or Wall Tiles?

9. Some of Solution in my Electric Towel Rail has escaped, What Should I Fill it with?

10. The chrome finish on my heated towel rail / radiator has started to peel off?

11. The brackets on my heated towel rail have dissintegrated and fallen off the wall?

12. Can I install the heating element in my electric towel rail into the top (and not the bottom of the rail)?

13. My radiator is piping hot, but the room is cold?

14. My electric towel rail / radiator arrived with moisture and water droplets inside the packaging - is it leaking?


1. My Electric Radiator / Electric Towel Rail Makes Banging Noise Whilst Heating

Firstly, check the solution levels and if needed top it up a little bit more with cold water (as Geyser Electric Towel Rails have a water based solution). There should be a gap at the top allow for expansion when heated, but you can simply, to a higher point than where it is now, normally just below the top rung, as this may help resolve the issue.

Secondly, vent the radiator using the bleed valve and a bleed key (key not supplied by us, but available from any DIY store). Do this when the radiator is up to full temperature.

If this does not work, it could be that the element is faulty or is touching the metal on theinside of the radiator. In this case we would look into replacing your element, please contact us to discuss.

2. My Variable Heat Element is Flashing a Fault Warning when used with the Dual Fuel Set-Up (switched off on the Unit, but switched on at the fused spur)?

This is nothing to worry about. The reason this is happening is due to the fact the element normally heats up to 60 degrees maximum but the temperature of the water coming through the central heating system is higher, so the heating element is flashing a warning that it is registering temperatures over its own limit. Simply switch the element off at the fused spur when the dual fuel electric towel rail is used with the central heating.

3. I have Just Fitted a New Portrait Radiator to my Central Heating System and it is Cold in Places?

When a portrait designer radiator (in particular) is installed it needs the full pressure of the central heating system, to ensure the water fills all internal space in the entire unit and pushes the excess aire right up to the top of the radiator inside. To give it the full pressure, customers should close the valves on all other radiators on the system and then switch on, so the new portrait radiator gets the full pressure of the system. Once it is hot and bled of any airlocks using the bleed valve, then slowly switch on the other radiators again.

4. The Pipes on my Radiator have been fitted Top and Bottom and the Radiator is Cold in Places?

Some models ("Empoli" Mirror Radiator, "Flasteel" Stainless Steel Radiator etc) have internal diverter plates in the rear horizontal collection bars, which are there to force the water up the inside of the radiator when the pipes are both fitted to the bottom of the radiator. So, when one (or both) pipes enter at the top, these diverters can inhibit the flow.. so these need to be knocked out. Simply insert a long screwdriver into the rear horizontal collection bar (through the tapoings) and it will hit a plate in the centre. Knock gently with a hammer to knock this out of place (it can then be left inside the radiator).

5. I Cannot fit the Bleed Key down the Back of the Heated Towel Rail to the Bleed Valve Located on the Back?

Some models ("Oslo" Heated Towel Rail etc) have been designed with the bleed valve on the back to improve the aesthetic appearance, so in order to bleed these you need to simply loosen the top two brackets and gently pull the heated towel rail towards you to fit the bleed valve in and release any excess air.

Rear Bleed Valves Access

A solution would also be to fit an automatic bleed valve which release excess air itself (we don’t sell these at present).

6. I have a 10mm Diameter Pipe Central Heating System (Micro Bore System), But I’d Like to Install a Geyser Radiator with a 15mm Diameter Thread?

Simply fit a 15mm to 10mm reducer, into the valves to allow it to be used with a micro bore system.

Valves Fitted to Micro Bore System

Our thermostatic valves already come with these included. If non thermostatic radiator valves are ordered, then your plumber or hardware store will easily be able to provide these.

7. My Radiator / Heated Towel Rail is too Hot to the Touch (for my children etc)?

If Electric: We suggest swapping to a Variable Heat element where the temperature can be controlled, as the Single Heat ones are set at 6 degrees. Note: At present some products cannot be sold with a thermostatic element (traditional towel warmers and producst with side valve entries) due to the fact our thermostatic elements have the controls on the bottom of the unit, but soon we shall be launching new range of variable elements where the controls will be located on the blank plate on the wall.

Radiator Too Hot Use Thermoastic Valves

If Central Heating: Again, we suggest thermostatic radiator valves are installed just on this radiator, as the thermostat on the central heating system will control and turn down all the radiators on the whole system (and different radiators will have different temperatures depending where they are in the chain, whereas individual thermostatic valves on each radiator will give you better control).

8. I Need to Replace My Existing Radiator but Cannot the Move the Distance Between The Pipes, Due to Floor or Wall Tiles?

If the existing pipes are wider than they need to be for the new radiator, you'd like to purchase, the plumber can fit a extension connector between the valve and the pipework to lengthen the setup to reach the additional width of your existing pipes. This will look fairly unnoticeable as per the picture below:

Connector Piece Fitted to Radiator Valve

If the existing pipes are narrower than they need to be for the new product, then there is a possibility your plumber could squeeze the pipes in (so they come out of the floor or wall and angle diagonally towards each other to reach the new width required). Alternatively if there is enough clearance (more so if the pipes come from the floor) you could put a 90 degree bend and return in the pipework to reach the new width. 

9. Some of Solution in my Electric Towel Rail has escaped, What Should I Fill it with?

Our electric towel rails are filled with a water based solution which has been mixed with Fernox Boilder Noise Silencer and Fernox Glycol Rust Inhibitor. You are fine to simple fill your towel rail up with some water if part empty. If fully empty simply visit your local hardware store to buy the two additives listed and you can top this up yourself, by adding a capful of each solution and mixing well.

10. The chrome finish on my heated towel rail / radiator has started to peel off?

When this happens, this is nothing that can be done to reverse this. All Geyser heated towel rails (with a mild steel base material with a chrome finish) are guranteed for 5 years. Simply call us up and we will ask you to complere our online returns form and this will be replaced for you.

11. The brackets on my heated towel rail have dissintegrated and fallen off the wall?

Some of the older heated towel rails we sold (circa 2005/6) had a clamp style bracket supplied with them, which few customers have experienced cracking of the brackets over time. We have now improved the design and provide new style brackets (as pictured on every ladder rail product page) which are much more hard wearing. If you have the old type which have broken, simpy call us up and we shall send you out a new set at no charge (if your heated towel rail is still within its guarantee). Outside of this, we can simply sell you a replacement set.

12. Can I install the heating element in my electric towel rail into the top (and not the bottom of the rail)?

No you cannot do this, the element has to go into the bottom of the rail, as the heat rises inside and it will not heat the solution properly if the element is at the top. Think about the design of a kettle for a moment. The heating element is always at the bottom to ensure all the water heats up inside. An electric towel rail works the same way.

13. My radiator is piping hot, but the room is cold?

This may be caused, if you have purchased a radiator with a heat output which is too low for your room. A radiator which is piping hot will be so hot as it is over working to try and heat the room. Here at Geyser we reccomend 100 watts per square meter of floor space, although there are many variables to take into account on this. We suggest either installing a second radiator or purchasing another with a higher heat output.

14. My electric towel rail / radiator arrived with moisture and water droplets inside the packaging - is it leaking?

Not necessarily. Remember we fill the empty rails with the heating solution here at our premises, so should any water (or foam) have escaped whilst filling this will sometimes cause moisture inside the packaging and on the rail. Simply dry off the rail and once fitted and working you will know if it is leaking, as it will be coming from one area.