Click to Jump to Answers:
1. My Electric Radiator / Electric Towel Rail Makes Banging Noise Whilst Heating?
2. My Variable Heat Element is Flashing a Fault Warning when used with the Dual Fuel Set-Up?
3. I have Just Fitted a New Portrait Radiator to my Central Heating System and it is Cold in Places?
4. The Pipes on my Radiator have been fitted Top and Bottom and the Radiator is Cold in Places?
5. I Cannot fit the Bleed Key down the Back of the Heated Towel Rail to the Bleed Valve Located on the Back?
6. I have a 10mm Diameter Pipe Central Heating System (Micro Bore), But I’d Like to Install a Geyser Radiator with 15mm?
7. My Radiator / Heated Towel Rail is too Hot to the Touch (for my children etc)?
8. I Need to Replace My Existing Radiator but Cannot the Move the Distance Between The Pipes, Due to Floor or Wall Tiles?
9. Some of Solution in my Electric Towel Rail has escaped, What Should I Fill it with?
10. The chrome finish on my heated towel rail / radiator has started to peel off?
11. The brackets on my heated towel rail have dissintegrated and fallen off the wall?
12. Can I install the heating element in my electric towel rail into the top (and not the bottom of the rail)?
13. My radiator is piping hot, but the room is cold?
14. My electric towel rail / radiator arrived with moisture and water droplets inside the packaging - is it leaking?
15. I have a Circolo Radiator from Geyser which uses 2x Variable Heat Elements - why do both elements need to be set at the same setting?
1. My Electric Radiator / Electric Towel Rail Makes Banging Noise Whilst Heating
This sound may be generated from the heated solution inside, known as ‘kettling’ – like the noise from a kettle. Your radiator may require additional boiler noise silencer to combat this sound. FYI: When we make up your electric radiator, silencer is added, but each set-up is different, so in some cases you may need to add a little extra. This is available from any DIY store. “FERNOX” (Brand Name) Boiler Noise Silencer (or you could use another brand). Simply remove one of the top plugs and add the silencer into the solution. Now you will need to repeat the initial bleed process, as you have altered the amount of liquid inside.
2. My Variable Heat Element is Flashing a Fault Warning when used with the Dual Fuel Set-Up?
This is nothing to worry about. The reason this is happening is due to the fact the element normally heats up to 60 degrees maximum but the temperature of the water coming through the central heating system is higher, so the heating element is flashing a warning that it is registering temperatures over its own limit. Simply switch the element off at the fused spur when the dual fuel electric towel rail is used with the central heating.
3. I have Just Fitted a New Portrait Radiator to my Central Heating System and it is Cold in Places?
When a portrait designer radiator (in particular) is installed it needs the full pressure of the central heating system, to ensure the water fills all internal space in the entire unit and pushes the excess aire right up to the top of the radiator inside. To give it the full pressure, customers should close the valves on all other radiators on the system and then switch on, so the new portrait radiator gets the full pressure of the system. Once it is hot and bled of any airlocks using the bleed valve, then slowly switch on the other radiators again.
4. The Pipes on my Radiator have been fitted Top and Bottom and the Radiator is Cold in Places?
Some models ("Empoli" Mirror Radiator, "Flasteel" Stainless Steel Radiator etc) have internal diverter plates in the rear horizontal collection bars, which are there to force the water up the inside of the radiator when the pipes are both fitted to the bottom of the radiator. So, when one (or both) pipes enter at the top, these diverters can inhibit the flow.. so these need to be knocked out. Simply insert a long screwdriver into the rear horizontal collection bar (through the tapoings) and it will hit a plate in the centre. Knock gently with a hammer to knock this out of place (it can then be left inside the radiator).
5. I Cannot fit the Bleed Key down the Back of the Heated Towel Rail to the Bleed Valve Located on the Back?
Some models ("Oslo" Heated Towel Rail etc) have been designed with the bleed valve on the back to improve the aesthetic appearance, so in order to bleed these you need to simply loosen the top two brackets and gently pull the heated towel rail towards you to fit the bleed valve in and release any excess air.
A solution would also be to fit an automatic bleed valve which release excess air itself (we don’t sell these at present).
6. I have a 10mm Diameter Pipe Central Heating System (Micro Bore System), But I’d Like to Install a Geyser Radiator with a 15mm Diameter Thread?
Simply fit a 15mm to 10mm reducer, into the valves to allow it to be used with a micro bore system.
Our thermostatic valves already come with these included. If non thermostatic radiator valves are ordered, then your plumber or hardware store will easily be able to provide these.
7. My Radiator / Heated Towel Rail is too Hot to the Touch (for my children etc)?
If Electric: We suggest swapping to a Variable Heat element where the temperature can be controlled, as the Single Heat ones are set at 6 degrees. Note: At present some products cannot be sold with a thermostatic element (traditional towel warmers and producst with side valve entries) due to the fact our thermostatic elements have the controls on the bottom of the unit, but soon we shall be launching new range of variable elements where the controls will be located on the blank plate on the wall.
If Central Heating: Again, we suggest thermostatic radiator valves are installed just on this radiator, as the thermostat on the central heating system will control and turn down all the radiators on the whole system (and different radiators will have different temperatures depending where they are in the chain, whereas individual thermostatic valves on each radiator will give you better control).
8. I Need to Replace My Existing Radiator but Cannot the Move the Distance Between The Pipes, Due to Floor or Wall Tiles?
If the existing pipes are wider than they need to be for the new radiator, you'd like to purchase, the plumber can fit a extension connector between the valve and the pipework to lengthen the setup to reach the additional width of your existing pipes. This will look fairly unnoticeable as per the picture below:
If the existing pipes are narrower than they need to be for the new product, then there is a possibility your plumber could squeeze the pipes in (so they come out of the floor or wall and angle diagonally towards each other to reach the new width required). Alternatively if there is enough clearance (more so if the pipes come from the floor) you could put a 90 degree bend and return in the pipework to reach the new width.
9. Some of the Solution in my Electric Towel Rail has escaped, What Should I Fill it with?
Our electric towel rails are filled with a water based solution which has been mixed with Fernox Boilder Noise Silencer and Fernox Glycol Rust Inhibitor. You are fine to simple fill your towel rail up with some water if part empty. If fully empty simply visit your local hardware store to buy the two additives listed and you can top this up yourself, by adding a capful of each solution and mixing well.
10. The chrome finish on my heated towel rail / radiator has started to peel off?
When this happens, this is nothing that can be done to reverse this. All Geyser heated towel rails (with a mild steel base material with a chrome finish) are guranteed for 5 years. Simply call us up and we will ask you to complere our online returns form and this will be replaced for you.
11. The brackets on my heated towel rail have dissintegrated and fallen off the wall?
Some of the older heated towel rails we sold (circa 2005/6) had a clamp style bracket supplied with them, which few customers have experienced cracking of the brackets over time. We have now improved the design and provide new style brackets (as pictured on every ladder rail product page) which are much more hard wearing. If you have the old type which have broken, simpy call us up and we shall send you out a new set at no charge (if your heated towel rail is still within its guarantee). Outside of this, we can simply sell you a replacement set.
12. Can I install the heating element in my electric towel rail into the top (and not the bottom of the rail)?
No you cannot do this, the element has to go into the bottom of the rail, as the heat rises inside and it will not heat the solution properly if the element is at the top. Think about the design of a kettle for a moment. The heating element is always at the bottom to ensure all the water heats up inside. An electric towel rail works the same way.
13. My radiator is piping hot, but the room is cold?
This may be caused, if you have purchased a radiator with a heat output which is too low for your room. A radiator which is piping hot will be so hot as it is over working to try and heat the room. Here at Geyser we reccomend 100 watts per square meter of floor space, although there are many variables to take into account on this. We suggest either installing a second radiator or purchasing another with a higher heat output.
14. My electric towel rail / radiator arrived with moisture and water droplets inside the packaging - is it leaking?
Not necessarily. Remember we fill the empty rails with the heating solution here at our premises, so should any water (or foam) have escaped whilst filling this will sometimes cause moisture inside the packaging and on the rail. Simply dry off the rail and once fitted and working you will know if it is leaking, as it will be coming from one area.
15. I have a Circolo Electric Radiator from Geyser which uses 2x Variable Heat Elements - What technical information do I need to know about installing and operatnig this product with 2x Elements?
The Circolo Variable Heat electric radiators from Geyser use 2x Heating Elements in the same product. This is required as the internal capacity is so high, it takes 2x elements to give the heat output required. Both elements can be wired into the same switched fused spur.. so there won't be any extra costs from your electrician involved with installing this electric radiator. Your switch will simply control the whole radiator (ie. operate both elements). When using the radiator, you need to note (as the instructions supplied explain) that both the elements on either side of the radiator should be:
Why? Well, the most important thing that needs to be taken into account with this type of installation is that the element only heats when the internal radiator temperature is lower than the one set on the element control panel, therefore consider this scenario:
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If only the left hand side element is switched on, at setting 3, for example, (which is the equivalent of approx 43 degrees Celsius) and the radiator reaches that temperature, then the left hand side element alone will work to keep this temperature in the radiator. If we then switch on the right hand side element at that moment and set it to, let's say, no 2 (being approx 37 degrees Celsius), that element won't heat at all because the sensor senses the temperature inside the radiator is higher than 37 degrees Celsius. With this, you'll be over working one element to do the job that 2x elements should be doing.
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However if both elements were switched on at the same time and set on 3, both elements will now maintain the temperature of approx 43 degrees Celsius collectively together.
So if your radiator has 2x 1000w elements, by switching them both on at the same time with their setting on 5 (the highest) you will achieve a heat output of 2000W with a temperature of 60 degrees Celsius. Finally, remember that your elements will remember their setting, so even if switched off and on again later they will remember their previous settings, so once you have your optimal heat for each room, you needn't adjust the settings again (until the season changes possibly). |
